Denali Highway and Denali

Friday, 6/27 – On to Denali - Pictures to follow - bad internet connection

We woke up to a light rain at the Lake 14th Street Campground. There were some concerns that the motor homes would have trouble making it up the slick hill, but it worked out o.k. Took a break a much-needed outhouse break (there are not many along the highway and our campground site suffered as a result) at Clearwater Creek where we saw swallows’ nests under the creek bridge peeking out of their little mud nests. The rain continued, causing mud, which resulted in our average speed being about 20 mph because of the potholes. The potholes and washboard road was particularly hard on the motor homes because they are sitting in their kitchens with rattling pots and pans and everything else. At one of the stops, they discovered the usefulness of a bed pan in that they (the pans) all went on the bed, resulting in a more pleasant ride. The low ceilings cancelled out any spectacular views for the whole day. The rugged terrain and desolate country still gave our travels a thrill. We spotted a bald eagle that launched off a tree and flew parallel with us for about a ½ mile at a steady speed of 23 mph. The motor homes stopped at Gracious House, a lodge and restaurant for wonderful homemade pie. It turns out the friendly owners wanted to sell the place and retire a mile down the road. Lodge, restaurant, airplane and the recipe for the pie crust were included in the price. Bill and Di briefly thought about new career opportunities, but decided to press on.

The sense of accomplishment and relief of mastering the Denali Highway was palatable when we hit the pavement at Cantwell. We arrived in Denali’s commercial strip and camped at one of those famous over-priced Alaska gravel parking lot campgrounds, the Denali Rainbow and Village RV Park. After three days of no showers for most of us, token-pay showers were priceless. It was also an opportunity for everyone to get laundry done. Mickey finished hers up at 11:30 p.m., as there were only two washers for the whole park. We did dinner at the Salmon Bake, where Mickey and Sandy finally got their Alaskan King crab dinners. (It was fabulous, by the way!) Some of us made arrangements for a jeep safari the next day. The really brave made arrangements for a raft trip on the Class 4 Ninana River.

Stats: 119 miles; 9.3 gal; 12.8 mpg; 24 mph

Saturday, we checked into Denali National Park, Riley Creek Campground. We went on the Savage River hike right away. We say caribou and several small critters, but no brown bears. The Jeep tour was a drive-it-yourself tour along the same road that Chris McCanlis from Into the Wild took to his Alaskan desolate experience and eventual death. The road was rugged, and they weren’t pot holes, they were mini lakes that we traversed. Nathaniel, our guide, told us that the last people from Michigan named the big one Lake Superior. We couldn’t go too fast through Lake Superior or the others because your bow wave would flood the engine. At the end of the road, we were hosted by the cook, Scott, a Wisconsin native. Nathaniel said that Scott has lived in Alaska for 19 years, half of it in a tent! Scott lives in the bush six days a week and cooks for three tour groups a day. His peppery Alaskan stew and fried bread were fabulous. He told us he doesn’t walk from the tent to the kitchen area (a distance of 10 feet) without his two pepper spray canisters on the ready in case of a bear. In addition to the pepper spray he always has two air horns handy. One of the first things he did when he set up came was build a homemade ladder into a tree to escape the brown bears (Grizzlies can’t climb). Black bears can climb, but they’re not nearly as aggressive as the bigger browns and are easily scared away by the air horns. We asked him what he did on his day off and he said, go to town, buy supplies, do laundry and go to the bar.

Scott, along with other stories we’ve heard and read, leads us to believe that Alaska is a home for lower 48 adventurers, characters, a few misfits and others with colorful pasts. Nathaniel says that he heard when Federal marshals find out wanted lover 48 people are in the bush in Alaska, they make minimal effort to find them. They are hard to find and as long as they stay, why spent $35,000 a year to incarcerate them? We switched drivers for the trip back, crossed “Lake Superior,” survived the “Bobble Head” and were doing pretty good when Nathaniel said we had to stop for a moment. The motion got to one of the ladies in his jeep and she need to relieve herself. Afterward, Gary complemented Nathaniel on the professional and delicate way he handled the passenger with motion sickness. Gary also suggested they carry barf bags because getting in and out of the back seat of a Jeep at all, much less quick, is challenging for us old people. Nathaniel thought it was a good idea and would bring it up at the next management meeting.

Vander Veens (helped by no sightings of Denali and the continued forecast for dismal weather) decided to head back on Sunday morning. This was reason enough for a wine and cheese and cracker going away party with our friends who would be going on to Talkeetna and down to the Turnagain Arm. On Sunday morning, one more goodbye to the rafters who had a 7:30 a.m. date with cold, rough, silted-gray river water and gray skies. We did the campground cancellation paperwork and got ready to head out. Because it was Sunday and a new phase (home-going), it was appropriate to take time to remember to Whom we belong. We got the pictures out of Ike and Nan and her card and we gave thanks for their life together.

The shorter way back was up to Fairbanks instead of Anchorage. It’s shorter and much better road conditions. Like we did four years ago, we stopped at the North Pole for lunch and sign pictures. Mickey heard from Sandy that there’s $50 for a picture of you and your JP’s cup at different places. We were going to do this with Sandy, but we split up sooner than we thought. We might have to split the money, Sandy! Weather has improved considerably and the view of the Alaskan Range to the south was spectacular. Once again, Laurel, shortly after Delta Junction, we spotted a moose. And once again, Gary promised he’d stop for the next one!!! (It was right by the road, bigger than life…and he drives by!!!)

Stopped in Border City Lodge and RV Park for the night. Actually have grass on our site!

Stats: 422 miles; 35.3 gal; 12 mpg; 50 mph