Chitna, Liberty Falls, and Denali Highway

Chitina and the Liberty Falls hike; Start of Denali Highway

After leaving Valdez on Tuesday, we stopped for more picture taking at the Thompson Pass, had lunch at the Worthington Glacier, and proceeded to Chitina. Chitina is half way to the Kennicot Copper mine at McCarthy. The last portion of the road is over an abandoned railroad track, and as a result a lot of flat tires from the railroad spikes. We had hoped to take a rental van in but none was available, so instead on Wednesday we did the Liberty Falls hike.

A description of our Copper River campsite: The spots that were treed and had fire pits were owned by Ahtna Indians and they charged $40.00 per night. So, being Dutch, we went to the flood plain along the river for free. We had a beautiful view of the river, eagles catching salmon, and the numerous fish wheels that Alaskan’s use to try to get their fill of up to 500 salmon. These are strictly for personal use and the way the guy talked, for a lot of families a necessity to put bread and fish on the table. In the morning a rafting company set up for a trip down the Copper River with six customers for seven days – maybe next time.

Gary’s been reading a book on the Civil War by Bruce Caton where he describes the challenge that the army of the Potomac had in conquering Richmond. General Grant was hard-pressed to get his four top commanders to do all those things that are required to conquer a city, as in supplies, pencing movements, where to put the Calvary, what to do with the infantry and in a General-ly sort of way, keep the politicians happy. Well, with that lead-in, the 14^th Street Brigade set about conquering Liberty Falls trail. Campground departure time slipped from 9:00 until 10:00. And a quick visitor stop for information turned into an hour long shopping stop at a Chitina local art store. Of course, we also had the usual morning post coffee potty stops, but we finally got going toward the trail. We passed the park entrance and it said closed. But the persistent efforts and observations of one of the Generals noticed that the trail was open. This required a complex outflank and reversal of men and women and equipment. The three pig pieces of equipment were corralled at a scenic lookout and all crowded into the smaller scout vehicle which, because of it’s nimbleness, could penetrate deeper towards the goal. After preparations, hiking poles (homemade and store bought), cameras, canteens, field glasses and bodily sustinence, we set out to conquer Liberty Falls.

Like Grant’s generals, we found the unexpected to be the norm. We expected horizontal; what we got was vertical. Our concerns for enemy carnivour were unfounded. There was, however, signs of their passing on the trail, similar to previous pictures you’ve seen. The view from above of the Copper River Valley, Mount Drum, Mt. Sanford and the active volcano, Mt. Wrangell, was inspiring. Inspiring enough for several to burst out in “Jesus is Lord!” “Halleluah!” and “Awesome God!” praises. After reaching the summit with almost all of our troup in tact, we rested up for the downhill campaign. As is always the case, downhill’s harder on 50 and some 60 year old knees. The hike once again proved that listening to suggestions from all the troops has great value. It also confirms that telling people where to go and how to get there is not gender-specific. However, there are some genders who do it better than other genders.

After a short drive up the Richardson Highway and a change of plans that dry camping, i.e., no showers, really wasn’t appropriate, we went for the high class, $15 a night campground at Sourdough Roadhouse. Along with the campground, the restaurant provided great blueberry and apple crisp pies that we bought whole for our dessert. It being Wednesday, we had a 14^th Street potluck. Everyone brought their meal to the community picnic tables between the Ryckbost and Vander Veen campers. A good time was had by all. The excitement after dinner was provided by Mama Moose and her baby ripping through the campground. The baby did a 180 around Frieswyk’s picnic table, knocking off their gas grill, sprinted through the narrow opening between Frieswyk’s and Day’s campers, rejoined Mama, who then feinted toward Vander Veen’s, slid left toward the outhouse and exited out the back. The showers were cold, so some did and some didn’t, and it’s easy to determine who is whom! The other campground across the bridge that we turned down because it didn’t offer showers was a much prettier campground. However, we would have missed Mama moose and her baby, so it was worth the $15 fee.

Stats: 106 miles; 9.1 gals; 11.7 mpg; 36 mph

Thursday, June 26

We planned for a 9:00 am departure, and we were off at 9:05! We stopped in Paxon, the beginning of the Denali Highway, for supplies: water, beer and bread (and a cup of coffee). The café owner reported the road conditions as being dusty, go slow, which we found to be true. Our post lunch hike was the Maclaren Trail, two hours round trip. It was a valley walk between snow-capped peaks and on the way back, Lois met her first caribou. It had a small rack and a white butt, just like a white tail deer. We also saw a ptarmagon, male and female and chicks. Great colors and it was fun watching the male sneeking along, trying to hide in the bushes.

Our next pull-off was crossing the Maclaren River, where we toured the Crazy Dog Kennels. These are dogs who run the Ididerod. They breed one pair a year. The puppies were 25 days old and we each got to hold one. The dogs need to be held by humans if they’re going to make good sled dogs. At six months old they put the harnesses on them and see how they respond. If they are eager to run, they’ll make good sled dogs. If not, then the owners put them up for adoption. The kennel is also a rescue place. They take dogs from the Humane Society and from people who don’t want them anymore or are going to put them down. We talked to Lucas Peterson, who just moved here two months ago from Wisconson. He had gone to school with the woman owner and she had been wanting him to come work for them for some time. He finally came and loves it. He took his two dogs with him and lives in a little cabin on the property.

We dry-camped at Milepost 46.9, a large area between two unnamed lakes. After spending twenty minutes getting te motor homes level (because if they’re not, the refrigerators will “blow up”), we grabbed our chairs and started serious scenery watching by the lake we have not named Lake 14^th Street. The lake on the other side also provided sightings of a wide range of water fowl. Trout were rising for the numerous bugs. Suddenly there was a strange sound and we looked to the south and there a water spout swirled into the air! It started with pulling water up into it, but it progressed across the lake in a circle (no water in the air) all the way to the other side. The ducks that were in the way of it moved or went under water. It was incredible!! Later, Bill was glassing into the distance when he spotted the moose. Even though it was long way away, we all were able to observe its beautiful rack as it bathed in the lake. It was a huge moose! After dinner we gathered at the Frieswyk RV to review the last couple day’s pictures. Instead of popcorn we had leftover pie from the Sourdough Roadhouse. It was just as good the second time around. We were even able to gather some brush for a fire that night. Didn’t see any more wildlife.

Stats: 85.9 miles; 7.6 gal; 10.7 mpg; 19 mph